As I stare at my Glock 34, I am reminded of how important it is to maintain it regularly.
Its sleek design and powerful capabilities are nothing to be taken lightly,
and I must ensure that it is always functioning properly and safely.
I think back to the people I've met who have cleaned their hands four times in a row,
and I realize that if they can do that, I can surely take the time to clean and lube my Glock.
I make a mental note to clean and lube my Glock every 500-1000 rounds,
depending on how often I use it. I also remind myself to clean and lube
it after extended storage. I know that by doing so, I am helping
to keep my gun in top operating condition and ensure that it will last for years to come.
As I prepare to clean my Glock, I take it apart and begin to inspect it thoroughly.
I notice that there is some buildup and debris in certain areas,
and I realize that this is likely causing it to have trouble extracting.
I clean it thoroughly, ensuring every nook and cranny is free from dirt or debris.
Once I have finished cleaning, I lube my Glock and ensure it is properly
field-shackled for inspection.
I realize that it is always a good idea to inspect and review my Glock,
even if it has been out of commission for an extended period of time.
I am proud of myself for taking the time to clean and maintain my Glock regularly.
It may seem like a small task, but it could ultimately save my life or
the lives of those around me. And with each clean and lube,
I know that my Glock is always ready to perform to the best of its ability.
How to disassemble it to perform general maintenance.
While there are many different types of Glock pistols, you can disassemble them all similarly.
Follow this guide to safely field strip your Glock in just a few minutes.
Point the pistol in a safe direction.
Make sure that the pistol is pointed in a direction.
Keep your finger away from the trigger and outside of the guard.
This will help prevent accidental firing.
Release the magazine.
Press the magazine release with your thumb and remove the magazine with your other hand.
Open the slide.
While pointing the gun in a safe direction, pull the slide back and lock it open.
You can push the lever up with your thumb while holding the slide back with your other hand.
This will hold the slide open.
Check for remaining ammunition.
Once the slide is open, look into the chamber and ensure no ammunition remains.
Use your pinky finger to sweep for ammunition in the chamber as well.
Check three times for remaining ammunition before proceeding to disassemble the gun.
Put on safety glasses.
Several components are spring-loaded and can cause serious eye damage.
The glasses will also help protect from solvents and lubricants getting in your eyes.
Close the slide.
Pull the slide back to release the stop lever. The slide will close.
Point the gun in a safe direction and pull the trigger to release the firing pin.
Grip the gun.
Hold the gun in one hand, four fingers around the top of the slide, and the thumb holding the grip.
Pull back the slide.
Using the four fingers on the top of the slide, pull it back about 1/10th of an inch.
If you pull it back too far, you will need to pull the slide back and restart the process.
Pull down the slide lock.
Using your other hand, pull down both sides of the slide lock lever.
Push the slide forward with four fingers until it has separated from the gun's receiver.
Remove the spring.
Push the spring forward slightly and lift it away from the barrel.
The spring is under pressure, so be careful when removing it.
Pull the barrel out of the slide.
Hold the barrel by the extruding lugs.
Lift the barrel while pushing forward slightly.
Raise and pull the barrel out of the slide.
Clean the gun.
Once the Glock has been disassembled, you can clean the gun.
You do not need to disassemble the Glock any further than this to properly clean and maintain it.
Reassemble the gun.
Once you are finished cleaning, you can reassemble the gun by reversing the above steps.
You will not need to hold the slide lock down when putting the slide back on the receiver.
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General Gun Cleaning:
Preparation is key to a good job. Choose a work area that is well-ventilated, well-lit, organized, and clean. Outdoors or in the garage is best. If you must work indoors, choose a large indoor room, and try to work near an open window. Your work table should be sturdy. It shouldn't rock or move when you lean on it. Avoid tables with wheels or casters. The dining room table or the kitchen counter is not the best choice because you don't want to contaminate your food with chemical solvents, gun oil, copper, lead, or carbon fouling. For the same reason, you shouldn't eat or drink while you work.
Once you have chosen an appropriate workspace, remove all ammunition from the area. All loose and boxed ammunition should be returned to its proper storage place before you start. Only after that is done should you get out your gun and make sure it is clear. If the gun has extra magazines, make sure they are also empty.
Before you get to work, find the owner's manual from the manufacturer. It should explain how to take the gun apart and clean it. Over the years, the manual for an older firearm, or one bought used, may have been lost. In that case, the two-volume NRA Guide to Firearms Assembly has written and visual instructions on taking apart various rifles, shotguns, and handguns.
There are various specialized and improvised tools that will help you get the job done right, but they can't be found in any cleaning kit. A rubber mat with a non-slip surface will help protect both the parts and the workbench from damage.
A cleaning cradle keeps the gun under control and leaves your hands free to control loose parts and cleaning equipment. If you don't have one, a shooting rest for sighting-in or varmint shooting is better than nothing. Your bench vise may look tempting, but leave it alone: Too much pressure from the vise can crack the stock or even crush the receiver.
Also, old cookie tin or coffee can is useful for holding loose parts. A container helps keep them in one place so small parts won't get lost or separated. You might want two: one for dirty parts waiting to be cleaned and a second for parts that have already been cleaned. Lastly, here's a trick for when springs or pins go flying: Keep a flashlight on hand, as it is often a big help in finding lost parts.
Even the tiniest pins and springs falling on the floor will cast a shadow when a light beam passes over them.
Once you have the gun disassembled, start cleaning the bore. The rifling at the muzzle is critical to accuracy. You don't want the cleaning rod to bang against the muzzle opening. Over time, this can widen the muzzle opening or leave it misshapen, so clean from breech to muzzle whenever possible.
With some guns, the barrel is more or less permanently attached to the receiver, which leaves you with no choice but to clean the bore from the muzzle end. In that case, use a bore guide (a sleeve that protects the muzzle), or a bore snake rather than a rigid cleaning rod.
Use a cleaning rod of the correct diameter. They generally come in .22-cal., .30-cal. or shotgun/muzzleloader diameters.
A cleaning rod that is too big will get stuck in the bore, while a cleaning rod that is too small will tend to flex in the bore, and it will take too much effort to push it through. One clue is that bore brushes are sized to the diameter bore and will only thread onto a cleaning rod of the proper diameter.
Start with wet patches to loosen the fouling.
Bore solvents are usually meant for either copper fouling or lead fouling. If you have been shooting jacketed or copper-plated bullets, use a copper solvent. If you have been shooting unjacketed lead, choose a lead solvent. I prefer cotton patches because they are more absorbent than nylon patches. Spear the patch on a jag or thread it through a loop before you wet it with solvent. In my experience, jags produce better surface contact, but they can be harder to push through the bore.
Try to push the patch through the bore in one smooth motion. Don't scrub, change direction, or pull the dirty patch back through the bore. Always remove the dirty patch from the rod when it exits the bore. After you've run three patches through the bore, it should be ready for the bore brush.
Bore brushes should be matched to the diameter of the bore. They are available with nylon, bronze, or steel bristles. Steel brushes are more rigid and abrasive and should be used with care and reserved for the toughest jobs. Nylon is the gentlest material, but it can take a lot more work to clean a bore with a nylon brush. In my experience, bronze brushes are the right choice for most cleaning jobs.
Thread the brush to the cleaning rod and wet the bore brush with solvent. Once again, push the rod through in one smooth stroke and remove the brush after it exits the bore. Ten passes with the brush should be enough. Run three more wet patches through the bore to pick up the fouling loosened by the bore brush. Wipe down the cleaning rod before finishing up with dry patches.
Each successive dry patch should come out of the bore cleaner than the last. If you don't see visible improvement after five to seven dry patches, repeat the process, starting with the wet patches from the beginning.
Your next step depends on your shooting plans. Once you are satisfied that the bore is clean, you can leave the bore dry if you are going to shoot the same day. However, if you have to store the gun overnight or longer, you must protect the bore from rust. Run a patch soaked with oil down the bore. Beware: Oil in the bore can create excessive pressure, a dangerous condition.
Oil must be swabbed out before you shoot again, so get in the habit of running a dry patch down the bore before you take your gun to the range or the field.
Old toothbrushes, rags, and cotton swabs are all useful aids for cleaning the rest of the gun. A general-purpose cleaner like Break Free or a carbon solvent will help loosen built-up powder fouling.
Once you are happy with your work, reassemble the gun right away. The longer the gun is left disassembled, the greater the chance parts will be lost or broken.
After you have reassembled the gun, it's time to make sure all of the parts work properly. Check the safety and the trigger for proper function. When you are satisfied that everything is in working order, you should oil down the exterior metal surfaces of the gun because sweat and body oil from your hands can activate rust.
Don't overdo it; a light coating of oil is enough.
Be aware that gun oil can soften the wood,
so don't soak the joints between the action and the stock.
Cleaning your guns is part of responsible and safe gun handling.
Clean firearms are safer, more accurate, and more reliable.
The better you know your gun, the better you can diagnose accuracy and function problems,
which makes you more confident at the range and in the field.
